FEW other places combine sophisticated city living with such intense natural splendour. A magnet for entrepreneurs and artists, San Francisco is also a great draw for visitors.

Shopping in the city reflects its status as both world-class metropolis and quirky city by the bay. The blocks surrounding Union Square house stylish department stores and fashionable boutiques. Drop into Nordstrom (tel: [1-415] 243-8500; San Francisco Shopping Center, 865 Market St), Saks Fifth Avenue (tel: 986-4300; 384 Post St), Macy's (tel: 397-3333; 170 O'Farrell St) or Neiman Marcus (tel: 362-3900; 150 Stockton St).

Also near Union Square, gastronomes can drool over the Williams-Sonoma flagship store, fashionistas simply must visit Gucci (tel: 392-2808; 200 Stockton) and Prada (tel: 391-8844; 140 Geary St), while hipsters will go ga-ga at Betsey Johnson (tel: 398-2516; 160 Geary). On Post Street, men can choose from classy European designer Thomas Pink (tel: 421-2022), American casual Eddie Bauer (tel: 986-7600), or cruise the Levi's flagship (tel: 501-0100), with a Jacuzzi that shrinks jeans to your fit. Or just hoof it over to NikeTown (tel: 392-6453). The most recent addition to the shopping fest: Crate & Barrel's superstore on Stockton Street (tel: 982-5200).

For a more literary San Fran experience, visit City Lights bookstore (tel: 362-8193; www.citylights.com), a 15-minute walk from Union Square at 261 Columbus Street, and the founding institution of beat poetry. There's also Get Lost Books (tel: 437-0529) for travel, Mystery Bookstore (tel: 282-7444) for whodunits, and Different Light (431-0891) for gay-oriented literature.

Another one-of-a-kind shop is Paxton Gate, part knick-knack store and part critter mortuary: shiny dead beetles and stuffed rodents feature alongside old electric fans. Helen's Wigs carries some of the most outrageous styles and colours ever committed to hair. Going from crass to classy, you can have your own custom-blended perfume made at Denis Dumont Parfumerie. It may take longer than grabbing some Chanel on Union Square, but after 23 years in the same store, Mr Dumont seems to know his stuff.

For a taste of America's freedom of speech, head to Bound Together (tel: 431-8355; 1369 Haight St) with many titles devoted to the overthrow of government. Nearby Pipe Dreams (tel: 431-3553) sells goods celebrating the smoking of marijuana.

As one of the most openly sexual cities in the world, the quintessential San Francisco experience involves a trip to Howard Street's Good Vibrations (tel: 974-8980; goodvibes.com). This store, selling erotica and sexual aids, is women-owned, cheerfully open and refreshingly friendly. More adventurous? Step into the dark side, down the street, at Stormy Leather (tel: 626-6783; www.stormyleather.com), or nearby Leather Etc (tel: 864-7558; leatheretc.com).

Fortunately the faint-of-heart can easily find more conventional city mementos. Ghiradelli Square (900 North Point; www.ghir adellisq.com) is home to such San Francisco culinary institutions as Boudin Sourdough bread and Ghiradelli chocolate. Though shunned by locals, Fisherman's Wharf offers everything from Golden Gate Bridge models to "Prisoner of Alcatraz" T-shirts.

Shopping will create an appetite for San Francisco's other great pastime: dining out. Options range from swank downtown restaurants to neighbourhood eateries. Fifth Floor at the Palomar Hotel (tel: 348-1555; 12 Fourth St) is a trendy new restaurant serving California-influenced French fare, with entrees in the US$30-$40 range. Three-year-old favourite Farallon (tel: 956-6969; 450 Post St) serves excellent seafood under extravagantly aquatic decor (including jellyfish-shaped glass chandeliers) at US$25-$35 an entree. Book a month ahead for either.

Perhaps the most authentic local treat is the burrito, best had in a casual taqueria for under US$5. The highest concentration of good taquerias is in the Mission, a Latino-dominated neighbourhood. Try Taqueria Cancun (tel: 252-9560; 2288 Mission St) or Maya Taqueria (tel: 621-8025; 3198 16th Street).

San Francisco is too beautiful to stay indoors. Whether you cycle, skate or just walk it, the rolling hills and water make the city almost too lovely to go anywhere by car.

Every Sunday, the main drives of Golden Gate Park are closed to cars, allowing skaters to enjoy the relatively flat terrain. Hire skates for US$6 an hour ($24 per day). Golden Gate Park Bike & Skate (tel: 668-1117) is right on the park at 3038 Fulton Street, and Skates on Haight (www.skates.com) is a half-block from the park at 1818 Haight Street.

The most spectacular cycling in San Francisco is actually just across the Golden Gate Bridge. For a beautiful, if challenging, ride, climb the Marin Headlands by crossing the bridge and turning left. On the hills, look west for stunning ocean views or south to see the city skyline. For less taxing cycling, veer right instead to meander through charming bayside towns Sausalito and Tiburon. At Start to Finish (tel: 202-9830), two blocks from the Presidio (the park hosting the San Francisco end of the Golden Gate Bridge), rent hybrid bikes for US$5 an hour ($25 a day) and mountain bikes at US$7 an hour ($30 per day).

Considering all this, it's clear why so many people consider San Francisco their favourite city. Sample as many delights as possible, and dream about returning someday - sooner than later.

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